H.M.S. Alert
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Sir, In compliance with your letter of the 24th of April, I left the ship with the dog sledge “Clements Markham,” Frederick (Eskimo), and seven dogs named in the margin and was accompanied by Captain Feilden, R.A. Naturalist, and Mr Wooton, Engineer. The following are the results of my journey. |
Black Face(King), |
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April 24th Left the ship at 11:45 P.M., on the 24th April; we had to haul the sledge round Cape Rawson, after which we had good travelling up to the Black Cape, where we had to man-handle the sledge again; we found hauling the sledge up to the top of the hummocks was just as much as the four of us could manage. Stopped for lunch after getting over the hummocks and started after lunch at 3:45 A.M. on the 25th; had very good travelling to the ravine just to the northward of Cape Union, where we camped at 8;00 A.M., making a short journey, as none of us had had any heavy exercise lately.p to this place I saw no ravines of any importance; the one by Cape Union, although having a very large discharge, appears to be fed by three steep water-courses. The coast traveled along is a series of headlands divided by ravines, which are full of raised beaches; hummocks being squeezed up all along the coast, but none so bad as those off Cape Rawson. As Frederick has not much idea of cooking , the officers are taking it in turns, it being mine to-day; finally getting into my bag I obtained a meridian altitude. |
Hours travelling, 6 3/4 Meridian Altitude° 00′ 00”. Calm, b.c. |
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April 25th A Beautiful evening; so went out with Mr Wootten, and got a round of angles with theodolite; on our return at 7:00 P.M., lighted up and had breakfast; starting at 10 P.M.; stopped for lunch at 1:30 A.M. The travelling up to this point has been very heavy, on account of the steepness of the cliffs along the shore, which have hard snow on tn their slopes, and in places no hummocks to prevent your falling from 10 to 20 feet on the ice, which is composed of very rough hummocks, and consequently worse to travel on than along the land. At one of these places, after making a gutter for one runner to fit in, and with the four of us assisting the dogs, we could not get along without the risk of the sledge falling on to the floe a height of about 15 feet, so unloaded and carried the gear over. Starting after lunch, at 3 A.M., we passed Arthur’s Seat after half an hour, and then eased the sledge down a steep slope on to the ice; travelling on it for another two miles, we struck on to the iceboat, and from there had fair travelling close up to the depot in Lincoln Bay, where we camped at 8 A.M. The hummocks are pressed up on the shore to within one mile of the depot varying in height from 10 to 25 feet. The land travelled along is nearly all precipitous, with steep tall; the line of coats has many points, gradually altering to the westward of the south after passing Cape Union The only ravine which we passed that seemed likely to lead to the northward, is one about three miles north of the depot’ Captain Feilden, R.A. was our cook to-day, and by the time we were in our bags were very glad to get our supper. |
Hours travelling, 8 1/2 Calm, b.c. 2 A.M. 3 A.M 8 A.M. South 2.3, b.c,. |
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Theodolite Time 6:5 P.M. Altitude 12° 35′. Azimuth 294° 50′. Peak north of Union zero Sun left of zero. |
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April 26th Roused the cook at 8:30 P.M., and got away at 11:30. As we intended exploring the ravine by the depot, and should not use the dogs, I sent Frederick away to shoot. I walked to the depot, and joined Captain Feilden and Mr Wootten on the lake. Tis lake which runs W.S.W., is about two miles long and averages 1/4 of a mile in breadth. the ice on it is of two descriptions; patches of this season’s ice between the old ice; there being at least twenty times as much old as new; the old ice was much cut about, and very sharp, cuttings one’s boots; the new perfectly smooth, and in some places you could have skated on it. At the end of the lake you walk for about 1/4 of a mile over a sandy mud bottom, on the surface of which is scattered many shells; we then got on to a second lake, much smaller and shallower, and which terminated in a gravelly beach; the shells here were even more abundant than before; the land rising slightly but evenly for some distance; Mr Wootten from here returned to camp. Proceeding, we came to a place where the summer torrent had cut a passage through the hard slate rocks for a distance of a 1/4 of a mile, with its sides as even as if done by human workmanship. After following this ravine in a W.S.W direction for about 5 miles, which is a series of shallow lakes and patches of mud, it turns to the N.W. We walked on another 5 miles, reaching approximately and altitude of 800 feet; from this position the highest land (which bore N.N.W.) I think is the watershed seen from Mount Dean. The land on the north side of the ravine is highly precipitous. As we had been walking for six hours, we deemed it wise to return picking up a hare, which was shot close to our furthest point. At the point where the ravine turns N.W. I observed two torrents ran in; a passage may be found across the land in the rear of Cape Frederick VII, but the size of the torrents gave me the opinion that they were only local. But there is a large ravine by which I think you could reach. Wrangel Bay. We did not arrive back till 11 A.M., having been twelve hours walking without food, and consequently very tired; the last two miles we were constantly spewing, and with difficulty preventing ourselves from going to sleep. On our arrival at the camp, Mr Wootten, with his usual forethought, had some tea all ready, which it is needless to say was most acceptable. In places vegetation was abundant, but we observed no traces of mud on; tracks of hares were very numerous, and in several places ptarmigan. |
Hours travelling, 12 Calm, b.c.,
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| April 27th | |
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A beautiful fine day, so we took a round of angles from a brow about 200 feet high. The accompanying sketch was kindly done by Captain Feilden at the time. After breakfast, started up the hill close to our encampment, with Captain Feilden, while Mr Wootten went on three miles with the sledge, as I intended exploring the ravines on my return journey. Examined a small ravine about 1 1/2 miles to the northward of our lat camp, but from wha I could see, 1000 feet above the level; it wss no use following it up. Proceeding along the coast line to the northward , we came to a large ravine mentioned before, being 3 miles from the depot, and it looked so favourable, that we determined to go back to the sledge for lunch and afterwards to follow it ip for a short distance’ On arriving back at the sedge, which was just off the mouth of the ravine, we were glad to find that Mr Wootten had lunch all ready for us, and as there was a S.W. wind springing up, making it very cold after perspiring freely, we started away after ten minutes halt with he sledge. After proceeding tip the ravine on a northerly course for about 3 miles, and the weather becoming thick, I was doubtful about going on, for if the ravine did not go on to the northward, I should not be back to the ship at the fixed date, so halted the sledge, whilst Captain Feilden and I went on 3 miles and ascended a hill 1,200 feet (by aneroid); unfortunately it was thick and misty, so could not see far, but thought at one time the ravine trended towards Cape Union; but it was too thick to make certain; however, I determined to follow the ravine up the next day. By the time we got back to the sledge it was noon, so encamped, all very tired. |
Meridian altitude April 27th Hours travelling, 12
South 1.2
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| April 28th to April 29th | |
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Roused cook at 8:15 P.M., and breakfasted . Started away at midnight; travelling heavy on account of the soft snow; after two hours’ travelling we reached the highest part of the ravine, but it was very misty, and consequently could see no distance. At 3 A.M. lunched, which took us two hours, as we could not get the water to boil. As luck would have it, the weather cleared after lunch, and we fond ourselves close to Cape Union; so followed on ravine which leads behind it; there was a very steep descent into the mouth of the ravine down which we eased the sledge; I fond that a pick made a very good brake, lashing the handle securely on the lower part of the runner and keeping the broad pad of it in the snow. We came out on the coast just north of Cape Union, and camped a few yards from our encampment on the 25th instant. After pitching the tent, Captain Feilden and I went up the headland on the north side of the ravine (thinking it was higher than Cape Union), taking the theodolite with us; we had a stiffish climb, as it was very steep; it was a beautiful morning and I got a round of angles, the opposite shore being seen very distinctly. Arrived back at the tent by 11 A.M. and had supper. |
April 28th Encampment Lincoln Bay Hours travelling, 9 Calm, b.c.,
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| April 29th to 30th | |
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Started after breakfast at 9:45 A.M. Lunched at Black Cape. Brought on from there a 5 man sledge and gear, which had been late by Lieutenant Rawson. Arrived on board at 5:15 A.M., when I reported to you. Travelling to-day much the same as the outward journey. I believe that a passage may be found to Lincoln Bay during the latter part of the spring , by following the coast line as far as Cape Union, and then following that ravine that we travelled through, or else by going overland to the watershed sen from Mount Dean, which will lead you into the large ravine at the head of Lincoln Bay.
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Hours travelling, 9 Calm, b.c., |
| Constants | Weights |
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| Equipment | Lbs | Ozs |
| 5-man tent | 21 | 4 |
| poles | 21 | 8 |
| sledge | 39 | 0 |
| Coverlet and lower robe | 31 | 0 |
| Sail | 7 | 8 |
| 8 man-trough | 5 | 12 |
| pick and shovel | 13 | 8 |
| 4 bags | 32 | 0 |
| 4 duffles | 20 | 0 |
| 4 knapsacks | 32 | 0 |
| Cooking apparatus | 13 | 0 |
| Store Bag | 17 | 0 |
| Sledge Bottom | 2 | 4 |
| Spare battens | 2 | 4 |
| Sextant | 12 | 0 |
| Theodolite | 10 | 0 |
| Rifle and gun | 12 | 0 |
| Ammunition | 2 | 0 |
| Medical Box | 3 | 13 |
| Constant Total | 310 | 4 |
| Provisions – | Weights | |
| Pemmican | 28 | 0 |
| Biscuits | 24 | 8 |
| Bacon | 10 | 8 |
| Potatoes | 3 | 8 |
| Cocoa | 1 | 12 |
| Tea | 0 | 14 |
| Sugar | 3 | 8 |
| Rum | 3 | 8 |
| Fuel (spirits) | 30 | 0 |
| Salt & Pepper | 1 | 0 |
| Total | 107 | 2 |
| 7 dogs, 4 days | 56 | 0 |
| Total | 163 | 2 |
| Rations | 163 | 2 |
| Constants ( Equipment) | 310 | 4 |
| Total | 473 | 6 |
| Per Dog | 67 | 10 |